Production #02

Whence came the
      colourful Middle Ages?

Dyeing in the age of Hanse

Textile production had already evolved into pre-industrial mass production based on the division of labour in the Hanse period. Dyeworks were highly specialized in specific materials (woollens, linens or silks) or dyes. Their work was strictly regulated. Separate trade were responsible for red or blue, for instance. Red-dyers were also permitted to produce yellow and white hues. Blue-dyers made black and green dyes too.

Dyers had numerous dyes at their disposal, which were primarily extracted from plants. Madder, dyer’s rocket and dyer’s woad were grown in many regions of Europe. Several provinces of the Netherlands were main areas where madder was grown, for instance.

The variety of colours, which we simply accept today, was an expensive affair in the Middle Ages. The production of dyes accounted for a large portion of production costs. Black or green, produced by repeated dyeing, increased the cost of undyed cloth by 15%. It cost 20 times more than dyer’s madder in the 15th century. Dyeing a white Flemish cloth with kermes virtually doubled the cost of its production.

Other dyestuffs, such as brazilwood for red or indigo, became available in Europe as overseas trade started growing in the 16th century. A chemical dye industry, which replaced or inexpensively synthesized natural dyestuffs, emerged in Germany at the end of the 19th century as a result of new scientific research findings. Virtually all of our clothing is synthetically dyed today.

Meister von Edward IV. (zugeschrieben): Färber bei der Arbeit (1482). Miniatur auf Pergament. Maße: 47 × 33 cm (Blatt). In: Bartholomäus Anglicus: Livre de proprietez de choses. The British Library, London. BL Royal MS 15 E III, f. 269. Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Flemish red dyers at work